On January 13, we carefully set out from West End through a shallow and winding break in the barrier reef known to some cruisers as “Pucker Passage”. Thanks to our Steve Dodge cruising guide, we had excellent GPS waypoints to follow.
Once safely on the Bahamas Bank, the water depth was seldom more than 20 feet deep and never less than about 12 feet. We started out motoring, but as the winds filled in, hoisted the spinnaker and main, doing about 7 to 8 knots under sail power alone. Unfortunately, after an hour or so, the winds began to drop, forcing us to start the engine as we needed to keep our speed up in order to arrive at our destination, Great Sale Cay, before dark.
We followed Calypso, a Manta 42 catamaran, who we had previously met on the intercoastal into the anchorage on the West side of the island, well into the bay. We were then protected from all directions except the South West. Although the wind was in fact in that direction when we dropped the hook, it was forecast to rise and to clock around slowly to the North East.
Our new friends in Zingaro, ChrisDeke and Mskoki elected to take the long way around to the East side of the island. I thought they were nuts because it meant that they would arrive in the dark and also, as the wind came around, they would be left exposed to waves.
The photo to the right, taken at Great Sale, shows our first sunset at a deserted semi-tropical island.
We took January 14th off, electing to sit around the anchorage. We had been pretty well continuously on the move since leaving home and needed it.
On January 15th, we raised the anchor and headed East. En Route, we passed Toucan, a Prout Snowgoose 37 Elite, a boat from the same stable as ours, but newer and with a fair bit more room. All that extra room and weight seemed to take its toll. Toucan was significantly slower through the water. We talked by radio, however, and agreed that we would both head for Allans-Pensecola Cay.
Much to our delightful surprise, we discovered that Zingaro, ChrisDeke and Mskoki were also headed for the same anchorage.
We took January 14th off, electing to sit around the anchorage. We had been pretty well continuously on the move since leaving home and needed it.
On January 15th, we raised the anchor and headed East. En Route, we passed Toucan, a Prout Snowgoose 37 Elite, a boat from the same stable as ours, but newer and with a fair bit more room. All that extra room and weight seemed to take its toll. Toucan was significantly slower through the water. We talked by radio, however, and agreed that we would both head for Allans-Pensecola Cay.
Much to our delightful surprise, we discovered that Zingaro, ChrisDeke and Mskoki were also headed for the same anchorage.
The Sunset was beautiful. 
That evening, we got together on the beach for a campfire. Beverley grabbed the dingy’s painter to haul us ashore. As you can see from her left hand, she was like a girl scout – always prepared. The young couple from Toucan brought their 3 very well behaved and somewhat shy children. Beverley and I both thought of my Mother when a gut bucket was manufactured by Scott (Zingaro) from materials found on the beach at Great Sale. Deke (ChrisDeke) played a small drum and Brad (Mskoki) played the guitar.
The next morning, they lead us on an expedition across the island to the North and unprotected side. We found several trees where boaters had left their names and the date of their passage hanging in the trees.
On the 17th, we left in convoy for Cooper’s Town or Powell Cay, motoring in a calm. Ten to fifteen knots of wind filled in from the South East, however, making both these anchorages untenable, so we continued on to White Sound in Green Turtle Cay. The entrance to White Sound has one shallow spot. 
We tucked ourselves into a shallow corner of the harbour, where we would stay for several days, until January 23rd. Strong winds were forecast from the North as a couple of fronts were to pass through in very quick succession. Most of the other boats elected to go to the dock. The marina offers a deal at this time of the year. One hundred percent of dockage fees may be applied to restaurant or to bar bills. Unfortunately, the restaurant is upper end and a couple will not get away without spending at least $100. The bar bills could add up very quickly. Anyway you looked at it, it would cost us $60 or $70 per day to stay at the marina – and if we were careful, our bar bills would be much less than that since most socializing was done outside of the bar.
We used the time to visit the town of New Plymouth: once by boat and once by rented golf cart. The town is very quaint and has surprising amenities for a town that size (e.g. 3 grocery stores and 2 hardware stores). The liquor store is also a bar and a restaurant. The owner was honest enough to advise one couple that instead of ordering a couple of glasses of wine, they should buy the whole bottle, drink what they wanted and then take the rest home. The whole bottle was cheaper than two glasses
We had a chance to check out prices. There were some real surprises. Food was significantly more expensive than in Florida. Some things, however, such as Irish cheese was much cheaper. Beer is so expensive, that you would think you were in Canada. A case of cheap rum is less than $80. Wine is generally $5 to $10 per bottle. Outboards and their parts are cheaper here than in the States. Land and housing is astronomical.
These pictures are typical of New Plymouth, showing a giant poinsettia, a graveyard for the original settlers and a few typical street shots. Houses are often painted in pastels.
While anchored in the Bay, we also visited someone who was building a home. The construction was similar to Canada except that there were many threaded rods that went down from the headers on the upper floor to the foundations. This was to anchor the building in place in the event of a hurricane. The individual was doing almost all the work himself. If he accepted help from outsiders, he risked being thrown off the island, never to return. If he needed help, he had to hire local labour.
By the 23rd, winds had calmed down and swung to the West. Also, the waves had calmed down in the passage between the Green Turtle area and the Sea of the Abaco. Another front was scheduled to pass through shortly, so we made a run for it while we could. The other motivating factor was that I was convinced that we were about to run out of propane and we could only get our tanks refilled at Marsh Harbour in the Sea of Abaco.
On the 23rd, we had a leisurely breakfast at the Green Turtle Club with our friends Gerry and Julie from the power boat Again as well as Grant and Marion from the sailing vessel Muskoki Moon. We were joined by Brad and Karen from Mskoki. Damn it – this is not a very solitary lifestyle. Then we set out by motor for Guana Cay in the Sea of Abaco.
As desired, the passage was very smooth although we did encounter slow swells about 3 feet high while negotiating the Whale passage.
On the 23rd, we had a leisurely breakfast at the Green Turtle Club with our friends Gerry and Julie from the power boat Again as well as Grant and Marion from the sailing vessel Muskoki Moon. We were joined by Brad and Karen from Mskoki. Damn it – this is not a very solitary lifestyle. Then we set out by motor for Guana Cay in the Sea of Abaco.
As desired, the passage was very smooth although we did encounter slow swells about 3 feet high while negotiating the Whale passage.
We ended up at Fisher's Bay on Great Guana Island and visiting famous places such as Nippers Bar, Grabbers Bar and others... but those will be included in the next posting of this blog.
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